Archive for February, 2009

2009 Wine Harvest in the Southern Hemisphere

A recent article in the Los Angeles Times entitled, “An Artist in the Vineyard,” featured Eben Sadie and expounded his quest for perfectionism in his vines and wines. Included was a pictures of Sadie stomping away at grapes. I gazed upon the image with eyes clouded by nostalgia. Once upon a time, I, too, stomped grapes, which turned out to be surprisingly foot-numbingly hard work. And once upon a time, I served Sadie a sample of pinot noir in the Oregon winery where I was working at, long before he gained world-wide recognition for producing South Africa’s top-rated wines.

I’ve been out of the wine biz for ten years, so perhaps I know not what I think I know. And, certainly, I’ll never know a fraction of all there is to know about wine. But, one thing is certain: wine making–harvest in particular–is a cooperative agriculture venture, bringing together people, both locally and from all over the globe. Sadie, like so many winemakers, traveled by the seasons to various wine-producing countries to garner first-hand experience and knowledge.

Personally, this congregation and migration of winemakers from far and wide broadened my interest in the world and sparked a dream of traveling to Burgundy. Ten years later, I wound up traveling further south than first imagined to the lush vineyards of Saint Emilion and Bordeaux. But, here I was. In France. In the wine country. On the train from Paris to Libourne, a woman pronounced and re-pronouned Libourne after my Anglophile-trained tongue stumbled on the vowels. I laughed as I remembered the visiting winemaker from France telling me I “talked funny” after I tried my few words of schoolbook French.

I should not have been surprised to read South Africa is in full swing of harvest, since I’m well away of the duel-hemisphere-multiple-harvests phenomenon, but I still had to do some calculating in my head. As I sat sipping hot cocoa, trying to stave off the Arctic air blasting Seattle, I reminisced about the fruity yeasty aromas rising from the open fermenting vats. I recalled the many interesting people I met along the way who shared their stories with me over glasses of previous vintages. Feeling confined indoors by the gray, rainy days, I keep a comforting thought in mind: harvest is only a hemisphere away.

2006 Erath Pinot Blanc; Floral Nose and Festive Mouthfeel

Well-balanced Oregon white wine

Oregon white wine, so very fine

Paying homage to where I first learned about wine, I decided to buy an Erath Oregon Pinot Blanc to serve as a counterbalance to the tangy pasta dish–Fusilli Alla Crazy Bastard–I planned to prepare for dinner. Funny name, fast preparation, and free of meat, this goat cheese and oven-roasted tomato slathered pasta dish paired superbly with the dry Pinot Blanc, just as I imagined it would. Go ahead and give it a shot! The recipe can be found at this Food and Wine’s recipe link: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/fusilli-alla-crazy-bastard.

Now, where was I? Oh yeah, wine. Let me just say, first of all, that I am of the “Old School” Oregon wine biz (circa 1995-1997), pre-tasting-room-fee days, in fact. The name Dick Erath is synonymous with the Oregon industry,having made his first vintage in the early 1970s. (For more winery information, please visit Erath’s website: www.erath.com.) (There are many other pioneers of the Oregon wine industry, but I dare not try to list the names, for fear of leaving off someone important. Perhaps another post…)

Yet I digress and I shall digress even more by proffering up some trivia to go along with this 2006 (ten years after “my time”) Erath Pinot Blanc. Here we go: What was the original name of Erath and who currently owns Erath? (Answers appear below.)

Now onto the important things in life: wine. This Pinot Blanc’s light straw color offers up nothing about the many surprises to come. When chilled, aromas of green apples with floral accents were first to come forth. After warming a bit, a richer scent of freshly mowed grass tantalized my senses.

Like Van Gogh’s sunflowers with their plump canary heads, petals swaying to an invisible breeze, this Oregon Pinot Blanc captures the essence of summertime. What do I mean by this crazy artistic reference? I dare thee to read on!

Refreshing lemon is the first flavor I detect. Soon this gives way to a luscious layer of butterscotch. Let me stop here a moment and emphasize that this is indeed a dry wine. So, why am I tasting butterscotch? I really can’t explain myself. It definitely was NOT sugary sweet, but rather creamy and caramelized. That aside, this wonderful white wine finishes out with a dash of kiwi and a streak of minerality, which provides a sense of place–terroir de Willamette Valley. To my surprise and delight, this Pinot Blanc is exquisitely well-balanced.

Label (Non)Sense:
I actually like the nice anagram and tagline Erath has developed for their label because it slices away the snobbery to reveal the true spirit of wine: Earth, Heart, Erath.

For all you cork die-hards, a warning about this wine: Erath uses screw tops. Shocking, I know, but ecologically sound, right? And, if you forget your corkscrew on your picnic, no worries, mate!

Verdict: Buy now! Drink now! Yummy!

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Trivia answers: Knudson-Erath and Chateau Ste. Michelle. Dick Erath still runs the show, as far as management of the vineyard/winery.

2007 Luzon Bodegas Jumilla; Buy & Drink Now!

Easy to Drink with Simple Meals

Easy to Drink with Simple Meals

Like a blind date, first impressions mattered when it came to picking out this wine. Wandering through the aisles of my local grocer, I fumbled around until I came across a bottle that met many of my unknown wine criteria: a region I know I like (Jumilla in Spain), an importer I trust, and a price of under $10.

Back home, I ripped the heal from my baguette and pulled the (real) cork from this Jumilla, I poured a bit into a glass to let it breath. Oh, who am I kidding; the wine barely hit the glass before I took a swig.

The color appeared to be rich purple, but don’t quote me on this because I’m missing the light from my salon. (Yes, I said salon; I live on my sailboat.) Anyway, back to the delicious nectar of Dionysus…

Sniff:

Earthy and sweet, I inhaled in the aromas of tobacco infused with spicy cinnamon and essences of dark berries.

Sip:

After the bread tasting piqued my interest in this Jumilla, I wondered how it would go with food. So, I waited until my pasta with marinara was cooked and plated before imbibing again. Upon the first bite and sip, I thought, ah, here is the beauty of this wine; it begs to be paired with food with its bright acids and soft tannins. Dark fruit punctuated by coffee and cassis glided across my tongue without distracting from the tomato, garlic and thyme of my simple Italian meal.

Verdict:

I recommend this wine for a nice accompaniment to Italian fare and Spanish dishes like paella. It even tasted great with my white chocolate dessert. Go figure!

It is a young, young wine, so I’d be interested in a re-taste after it is all grown up. At times it felt a bit jagged on my palate. The acids prickled the tip of my tongue and finished nicely, but fell short of wowing me on the mid-palate.

The Label:

2007 Jumilla
70% Monastrell
30% Syrah

The Winery:

Luzon Bodegas, located 350 km southeast of Madrid, is a family-owned winery consists of 90 hectares. Founded in 1916, these vineyards, located in the La Hoya de la Carrasca valley, receive little rain and have chalky and gravelly soils.

For more information on the Luzon Bodegas, you can visit their website: www.bodegasluzon.com. (Be sure to turn down your speakers first, unless you enjoy thumpin’-good techno music!)